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DIY INSTALLATION PROCESS
 

Whether you are installing synthetic grass yourself or hiring a professional, here are the basic steps to a successful installation.

Initial Ground Clearing

Begin by clearing the ground of any covering or debris. For existing lawns, this may include removal of sod, rocks, gravel, etc. Tools that are helpful for this are a sod cutter, hoe and shovel. Once the ground is cleared, you may want to apply a weed and grass killer and a weed barrier to ensure vegetation will not be growing under the turf. Remove the base to approximately 2”-3” below the finish grade level.

Installing Gravel & DG Sub-Base

Next, install ½” - ¾” crushed gravel as a sub-base. This is available at your local rock yard or home improvement store. The crushed gravel should create a base approximately 1”-2” thick. The gravel sub-base is used to give a solid base for the product while still allowing for drainage. Next add a layer of crushed rock or decomposed granite (DG), typically 1” - 2” thick.


Grading

Once the base is applied, it needs to be graded and leveled to meet drainage requirements and the overall appearance you desire (completely flat, slightly rolling, pronounced knolls). Grading is typically

Compacting the base

Initially compact the area with a water roller, then spray a small amount of water over the gravel and compact again to enhance compaction and reduce dust. Each layer of rock should be compacted to 80-90%. This typically takes 2-3 passes. Let the compacted crushed gravel sub-base dry, ensure you’ve maintained the proper grade, and adjust if necessary. You can use a water roller, plate compactor and hand tamper to complete this portion of the installation. Remember that the turf will be installed directly on this base, so any inconsistencies will be evident once the synthetic turf is laid.

Planning and Layout

It is helpful to have a drawing of the installation area with the turf laid out in the sizes and direction already planned. Remember that different sections of the turf must be laid facing the same direction to avoid a mismatched appearance and noticeable seams. This does not apply to once piece installations. JSA Depot synthetic turf comes in 15’ wide rolls (12’ for some putting greens), so base your layout on a 15’ scale to avoid unnecessary seams.

Measuring and Cutting the Turf

Taking the measurements from the installation area, roll out the turf for your first cut. It is helpful to mark the turf with your cutting points, then turn the turf over to make the actual cuts. This enables you to cut precisely between the blades of grass and maintain a straight line. Snapping a chalk line is often helpful when cutting a long portion. Using a standard carpet knife (with plenty of spare blades), begin cutting along your marked line, taking care not to cross over any rows of turf unnecessarily. This will affect your ability to seam properly.

Seaming

A properly cut seam is virtually invisible once installed. Begin by laying out the two pieces of turf to be seamed. One section should be already cut and fit in position, and the next piece should be cut to accommodate the initial section. Secure the turf by staking the edges with 6” galvanized landscape spikes. The spikes should be installed at 4” – 8” intervals around the edges.

As you are cutting the seam, check to be sure there is no overlapping or bunching of the turf or seam tape. Once the seam is lined up, place a couple spikes away from the seam on either side to hold the grass from moving. Then roll the grass edges away from the seam, place the seam tape down, add the adhesive, spread the adhesive and then roll the grass back into place. Put the side with the blades pointing away from the seam down first.

Once lined up and properly in place, tamp or roll the seam to insure proper adhesion. Finally anchor the turf with spikes on either side of the seam, 1”-2” from the seam and every 4”-6” down the entire seam.

Anchoring

Continue anchoring the turf to the base with 6” helical landscape spikes. These can be purchased through JSA Depot. Begin on one side of the installation and work your way around, taking care to pull the turf tightly to the edge of your work area and securing the turf every 6” or so. This is vital to keeping the turf secure over the years of wear.

Infill

The final step is to add infill to the turf. This can be either rubber, sand or a mixture of the two. Sand is used as ballast to keep the turf hugging the ground, but by using a sufficient amount of spikes, the sand infill is not necessary. Sand also acts as an abrasive to the turf. Rubber is the best choice, as it offers a cushioned base that is non-abrasive.

While some manufacturers offer no-infill turf, it is recommended to apply rubber infill to some degree, as it adds to the overall longevity of the turf.

Using a drop spreader for an even application, spread approximately 1 pound per square foot (or whatever the turf will allow) of the rubber infill over the turf. Work this into the base of the grass blades using a stiff bristled push broom and/or plastic leaf rake. If available, use a motorized power broom from an equipment rental store.

Clean-up

Use a blower, rake, brush or broom to clean up the grass area, then finish the job with water cleaning from a strong hose.

To add to the overall appearance of your synthetic turf area, consider installing a border around your turf area of concrete curbing, colored rock, stepping stones or mulch.

 

 

 





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